6.19.2006

Summer's Here...

The kids will be out of school tomorrow. The yearly Hammonasset beach pass is on the windshield. The fishing has started, and the airconditioner went on for the first time last night.

Summer is here, and it's time for more photography as well. We've got a weeklong trip to Vermont planned for later in the season, plus a long weekend in Montreal in the works. Till my darkroom starts cranking, here's my favorite photo from last summer:



Hide and Seek

6.13.2006

The Itinerant Photographer

I am finally getting around to sorting out my photos before I completely forget where they were taken. I have set up a "no words," pure photo blog - The Itinerant Photographer.

The photos are mostly travel shots, and some from my evolving "Hometown" project, which I started last year. There should be more photographs in the blog in a few days.

Enjoy!

6.12.2006

Photographic Cliche?

I posted this photo last week on an online forum thread about "Cliche." Someone had commented that, to his dismay, most people that look at his photos love his "cliche" shots and gloss over the ones that he, as a photographer, likes most.

Are photographs cliche because they are the ones that appeal to the general public? Is it because they use a formula that is proven and "successful?" Is it because they arouse in the viewer a paricular feeling, by association if nothing else, driven by advertising - postcards, calendars, travel magazines?

To the "original" photographers: How many photographs are truly original? How many times have you tried to emulate something you saw, and admired - in a photography book or online? A photograph by a master, or one in a friend's blog?

It is funny how photographers tend to like photos because of qualities invisible to "laymen." If it is only appreciated by other photographers, is it a good photo? If one had to be an artist to admire the Mona Lisa, it probably would not be in the Louvre.

Just some food for thought.

6.09.2006

Day Nine: Kusadasi, Turkey


Our day's tour began with a visit to the house of the Virgin Mary, where Jesus' mother is said to have lived the last years of her life. The site has been officially declared a shrine of the Roman Catholic Church and was visited by Pope Paul VI in 1967.

We then continued to the ancient city of Ephesus. With a population greater than Pompeii, it was one of the largest roman settlements of its day. The Great Theatre dates back to the Hellenistic period. In the 1st century AD, the ampitheatre was successfully reconstructed and expanded by the Romans until it reached a seating capacity of 25,000. This is also the place where St Paul preached to the Ephesians. It is still used for performances today, and the acoustics are excellent. The Marble Road which runs between the theatre and the Celsus Library is part of a sacred walkway that leads you to the Celsus Library and Hadrian's Temple. The temple was dedicated in AD 118 to Hadrian, Artemis and the people of Ephesus, but was greatly reconstructed in the 4th century. This impressive Corinthianstyle temple has beautiful reliefs on the porch, and the Ephesians believed that the Medusa head on the porch would protect the city from its enemies. Leaving Ephesus, we walked, as Mark Antony and Cleopatra did, along a tree-lined road to where the old port was located.

Lunch was a Turkish feast. We were taken to an excellent outdoor train museum. An affluent local had assembled an impressive collection of antique locomotives, parked on a sprawling private lawn. There were long tables of delicacies - grilled meats with lamb and kebobs. The dessert table was laden with twenty variations of baklava. The liveried servers attended to the buffet while a local dance troupe entertained us.

The cruise is coming to a crescendo: tomorrow, the scenic caldera of Santorini.

Day Eight: At Sea

A scenic daylight passage through the Bosporus, past Istanbul, and through the Sea of Marmara as the Prinsendam made its way back to the Aegean Sea. The warm winds and calm blue water were certainly welcome.

A little over midway in our cruise, this was a day of rest. Of lounging in the sun, reading, and... doing the laundry!

Sea days are also chockful of onboard activities: Name That Tune, Super Dooper Trivia, Sing-A-Longs, Scattergories, Pictionary, Snowball Bingo, and of course, the art auctions.

Tim Kruse plays every evening in the Crow’s Nest, the Lookout Quartet is in the Ocean Bar, and the Champagne Strings are in the Explorer’s Lounge. The Ocean Bar seems to be the place for some of the special evening events. There was the 50’s Prom Night Party, the Country Western Jamboree, 70’s Disco Party, Dance Request Night, Baby Boomers Party, and the Singles and Solos meeting.

On slow days, the Wajang Theater (with free popcorn!) is one of my favorites. During this cruise's three days at sea, I saw three movies: "The Interpreter" starring Nicole Kidman, "Batman Begins," and "The Manchurian Candidate," with Denzel Washington.

Quite a bit to choose from before our dinner reservation tonight at The Pinnacle Grill.

6.07.2006

Day Seven: Sevastopol, Crimea, Ukraine


Sevastopol is a major fishing and warm water commercial port for the Ukraine, as well as a leading cultural and scientific center for the Black Sea region. It was founded in 1783 by special decree of Catherine the Great.

Our Sevastopol Sights tour started with the Panorama Museum for a view of the famous Panorama—, a 5,000 square-foot monumental painting called The Defense of Sevastopol, which depicts the battle of Malakhov Hill during the Crimean War.

Next was an uphill walk to a nearby section of the Bastion, where seven historic cannons remain in place. It was here that Leo Tolstoy wrote Sevastopol Sketches.

In the downtown area, the group visited the Vladimirsky Cathedral, —pantheon of renowned Russian Admirals. Last stop was a walk along Primorsky Boulevard (A different one! Does this translate to "Main Street?"), to the seaside promenade, to see the Monument to Scuttled Ships, which stands offshore. The Monument of the Unknown Sailor was a sight: a quartet of rifle-bearing students from the local high schools, dressed in naval uniform, volunteers to guard the monument.

6.06.2006

Day Six: Odessa, Ukraine




Our Odessa City Highlights tour started through the central downtown to Gogol Street, lined by stylish, early 19th-century buildings designed by Italian, French and Russian architects, historical monuments and picturesque squares. Our first stop was the top of the Potemkin Steps, descending 455 feet to the waterfront. We walked along picturesque Primorsky Boulevard, as majestic 100-year-old trees led us to the Pushkin Monument--dedicated to the Russian poet who spent thirteen months exiled in Odessa. The group passed City Hall and a cannon salvaged from the British frigate, Tiger, which sank during the Crimean War. The Opera House was built in 1884 in Hapsburg Baroque style. We then proceeded to the main city's square, with a statue to Lenin recalling Soviet times, and St Panteleimon Church with its five onion domes. Finally, Shevchenko Park and Deribasovskaya Street, the city's main shopping area. We shopped in the open air handicraft market in the City Garden for souvenir items including a Fedoskino lacquer box, and matrioshka dolls.

Speaking to our tour guide, an Odessa University professor, it appears that the population is divided between their present independence and the security of the former USSR. Present times are hard. They only have hot running water three months out of the year. In a country where more than half of the year is bitingly cold, this can be difficult.

Odessa has the feel of a cultural, university town. One faced with a challenging transition. Like the two 12-year old boys playing flawless classical violin for tips on the street corner, the city is adapting to the times.

6.05.2006

Day Five: Constanta, Romania

Constanta is the nation's main seaport. It's major attraction is the Tomis Baths. The roman ruins were discovered in 1959, but were left to decay by the Ceausescu government – the ancient rocks were mainly used by children to play mock wars. There is a surviving mosaic fragment, housed in a lone building erected for this one purpose.

We elected to pass on the handful of tour offerings. Instead, a three-mile shuttle ride from the port dropped us off downtown, for $4. Dada and I along Stefan Cel Mare, Constanta's main shopping street. We were accosted by two gypsy men, who, fortunately, ran away when I responded in kind. Walked along Tomis Boulevard, and just decided to spend the rest of the day back at the ship.


There really was not much to see. In fact, Holland America refunded those who went on the tours that day after the passengers complained for “lack of content.” It was that bad.


With its way of making up for lackluster ports, the Black Sea was exceptionally tranquil that night. The moonlit sea was lovely. The wind grew colder as we made our way toward the former Soviet Union.

Day Four: Nessebur, Bulgaria


The Prinsendam docked at the ancient port city of Nessebur. One of Bulgarias' oldest settelements, it has been inhabited for more than 3,000 years. In 1983, it was placed on the UNESCO list of World Cultural Monuments.

Our half-day tour started with a relaxing drive in the countryside to the quaint little town of Goritsa. First stop was a simple rural Orthrodox church, where the priest and his wife welcomed us, and proudly expounded on the gold-ornamented icons lined up along the church's wall.


We then had a short visit with a rural Bulgarian family. The lady of the house had laid table of pastries, freshly baked bread, and grapes in the garden, and her husband was busily pouring grappa for their foreign guests. Across the street was the local school. The schoolchildren were playing tag in the schoolyard, and eagerly struck up poses for the tourists' cameras.

At the steps of the town hall, a 90 year-old lady was selling crocheted doilies. Next was a formal welcome by the local mayor, punctuated by plugs to invest in Bulgarian real estate. “Sunny Beach, Bulgaria” was apparently the up and coming Riviera. Ummm.


The cruise ship tour buses obviously contributed greatly to the local economy. The people were very welcoming, but I couldn't help but feel that everything was scripted, like like that old Chevy Chase movie were he paid the townspeople to help him sell his house. True enough, as I looked through the back window while the buses were pulling away, it was as if someone had yelled, “cut.” The locals had gotten up from their stations, and were slowly filing back to reality.


The rest of the morning was spent browsing the touristy shops in Nessebur, lining the streets alongside Roman ruins. On-board, the so-so port of call was made up for by the excellent Chateaubriand dinner. We were then treated to local dances and the sounds of the angklong, while sipping rasasayang during the Indonesian Crew Show.

Day Three: Istanbul


This was definitely one of the cruise's highlights. Too bad the weather was not so cooperative. We disembarked at 7:45am with open umbrellas and made our way to the waiting tour buses. I hoped that it would not rain all day. On the bus, I swapped the ISO 100 film in my Leica M2 for Fuji Press 800, the fastest film I dared carry through the airport x-ray scanners. Looks like today will be a test for steady hands.

The first stop was Chora Church, with its fabulous 11th-14th century frescoes. These were plastered over by the Ottoman Turks, who added a minaret and converted it to a mosque. Ataturk, founder of the Turkish Republic, later removed the plaster and restored the frescoes. This sequence is true in most churches/mosques throughout the city.

Topkapi Palace, the palace of the sultan of the Ottoman Empire, is closed on Monday, the day we were at port. Luckily, Holland America secured a special pass for us to enter that day. Without the mobs of tourists. Nice touch again.



A short walk took us to a local restaurant for a traditional Turkish lunch, after which we made our way to the Hagia Sophia, which stands for "Holy Wisdom" and was not named after the saint. It was built by the Emperor Justinian in the 6th century, and was the largest church in its day. Today, it is the fifth largest, after the basilicas of St. Peter and St. Paul in Rome, the Duomo in Florence, and that in Milan. This was according to our guide, Selim. According to the inscription on the floor of the nave in the Vatican, it is the 26th.

Across is the equally impressive Blue Mosque. Built in 1616 by order of Sultan Ahmet I, the architect Mehmed Aga wanted to outdo the Hagia Sophia by building a larger dome, but could not. Built over the the great palace of Byzantium, the Blue Mosque derives its name from the blue-colored tiles lining its upper interior walls.

Enough of history, on the the Grand Bazaar! First off was a Turkish carpet demonstration at Hereke, one of the rug merchants in the business. Sadly, this was less of a demonstration of carpet weaving and more a display of carpets for sale. Still, beautiful works of art. A top line silk carpet has almost 2,000 double knots per square inch, and it takes a "weaving girl" 4 years to complete a 4ft by 6ft carpet.

The grand bazaar is a visual and aural treat. Bright, hand painted plates and trinkets, and shimmering gold jewelry line the aisles of this large covered marketplace. The cacophony of haggling and merchants enticing sellers to enter their stores grows louder as enter deeper and deeper into this great maze. The rule is: start haggling with a bid price half of the sellers initial price, work your way from there, and have fun!


I was only able to take one photo in the grand bazaar, before my two arms were saddled with shopping bags one tends to accumulate when one goes to the bazaar with one's wife.

Day Two: At Sea

My ever-active wife laughs at me, but I do enjoy the days at sea probably as much as the days on the various ports of call.

What's not to like? Strolling on the ship's elegant brass and teak decks, laying on a lounge chair reading a good book, gourmet meals punctuated by double espressos at the Java Bar.

We sailed across the Aegean and through the Dardanelles, alongside the ancient city of Troy, in what is now the Turkish province of Canakkale. That afternoon, we attended an informative lecture on "The Byzantine Empire, Viking Russia, and the Renaissance" by Holland America's guest lecturer Olga Stavrakis. Olga was born in Kiev, Ukraine, holds a Ph.D. in Anthropology and an MA in Archeology.

This was one of three lectures in the cruise's Explorations Speaker Series. The other two were "The Golden Age of Ancient Greece and its Enduring Legacy," and "Ephesus: The Magnificent Roman-Byzantine and Early Christian Religious Center." Her lectures provided great background to set the stage for the shore excursions. Nice touch.

The best thing about cruising is that everything is so meticulously planned. The way the ship docks while you are having breakfast, affording you a glorious view of the day's port-of-call just as the sun rises. Similarly, first full cruise day is usually a day at sea, to allow you to rest from your flight if you just came directly for the cruise, adjust to the timezone, unpack and explore the ship. At the end of it all is the cruise's first formal night. It starts with champagne and hors d'oeurves at the Captains Gala Reception, and is followed by a formal dinner. Not too much wine... got to get ready for tomorrow's port of call: Istanbul !!

6.04.2006

Day One: Athens, Greece


I suppose this should be day zero, but since my day count is calibrated to the cruise, let's just call it day one, okay?

After coffee at the hotel, we were led by Vasia, our guide, on the "Athens and Acropolis tour." The first order of the day was a hike up the Acropolis of Athens, the most important site of the city. It is guarded by the doric and ionic columns of the Propylea, the monumental gateway to the Acropolis. Dedicated to Athena Parthenos, the magnificent Parthenon truly is a wonder of the ancient world. Beside it, the Erechtheion, with its famous porch of the Caryatids, was dedicated to Athena and Poseidon-Erechtheus, the two principal deities who, mythology holds, fought for the name of the city of Athens.

The driving tour of Athens brought us back to the present with a well-timed photo stop at the residence of the Prime Minister, to witness the elaborate changing of the guard.

The tour ended in the port of Piraeus, where the gracious 793-passenger MS Prinsendam was moored, waiting for its sail-away at sunset. Standing on the deck as the sun set on the blue Aegean Sea, watching the greek shoreline receding in the distance, I distinctly felt a burden lift off me. The vacation had truly started.

Day Minus One: New York to Athens

October 14-15, 2005. It is quite uncommon that we manage to luck out on a non-stop transatlantic (or even domestic) flight. The trip from JFK to Athens took 9 hours, and it was the proverbial flight from hell. Luisa and I shared the rear section of the aircraft with a large group of over 40 rowdy midwesterners, apparently all related. After group exercises along the aisle while the movie was playing, and conversations carried across 8 rows, we were wishing for a layover, if only to cut short the torture.

After checking in at the Ledra Marriot in Athens, we took a taxi to the city's main plaza, Syntagma (which stands for "Constitution") Square. The afternoon was long, leisurely walk along the Ermu, the Athenian equivalent of Barcelona's "La Rambla," starting across from the Greek Parliament. It is lined by small shops selling trinkets, jewelry, and leather goods, amid ancient ruins such as Hadrian's Library.


A friendly shopowner pointed us in the direction of Hermion, an elegant Greek restaurant where patrons dine under a canopy, while gas heaters drive away the early evening chill. A sumptuous meal of tzatsiki, moussaka, veal and lamb, all washed down with the local Alpha beer concluded the first day of our vacation. Tomorrow, the cruise to the Black Sea begins.

The Black Sea Magic

Vessel: The MS Prinsendam
Dates: October 16-28, 2005
Master: Captain Halle Thor Gundersen
Hotel Manager: Klaus Riezler
Cruiese Director: Jack Chambers (he was our cruise director last year on the Noordam, as well)
Executive Chef: Rudi Sodamin
Our Wine Steward: Alvin
Our "Bar Man": Marlon
Our Waiter: Sandy
Our Cabin Steward: "Ali"

The Itinerary:

Leaving Athens we will sail to Istanbul, Turkey after a full sea day. The ports on the Black Sea coast were Nessebur, Bulgaria; Constanta, Romania; Odessa, Ukraine; and Sevastopol, Ukraine. Then, we will re-enter the Aegean Sea on to our next port, Kusadasi. The last two ports before disembarking in Venice, Italy are Santorini, Greece and Dubrovnik, Croatia.

The Decisive Moment


Regarded as one of the holy grails of photobook collecting, most of us will probably never own a copy of this book. I had the opportunity borrow one from the library in Lyme, CT. They obviously did not have an idea of its value, or else, as in most libraries, it would have been confined to the reference section. Well-heeled collectors regularly pay $3,000 for a good copy.

The decisive moment, as Cartier-Bresson defined it, is "the simultaneous recognition, in a fraction of a second, of the significance of an event as well as the precise organization of forms which gives that event its proper expression."

This masterwork has never been reprinted. I wish it would. It deserves to be enjoyed by more than an elite few. Until then, I am content with the e-book version.

6.03.2006

Father's Day gift for the Travelling Dad

Casio Atomic Solar G-Shock

I remember when solar-cell watches cost a bundle and needed to be charged daily. The newer Casio's have a solar cell hidden on the watch face, and a 5 minute exposure to sunlight is enough for the watch to operate for 6-12 months in total darkness!

Other goodies:
  • Early each morning, the watch syncs with the Atomic clock in Colorado via satellite.
  • World time display for 29 different time zones.
  • Waterproof to 200 meters.
  • Five alarms plus snooze.
  • G-shock construction means it is one of the toughest watches you can wear on you wrist.
  • Backlight illumination smart enough to automatically light up when you tilt your wrist to look at the watch in low light.
  • Stopwatch - useful for film processing.

How much? How about less than $50? It was on Amazon's Friday sale yesterday for $44 with free shipping. Leave your fancy watch at home.

For the daydreaming dad, you can opt for the cool, black, metal-banded version on Ethan Hunt's wrist in MI3. Cheaper than an Omega Seamaster.

Darkroom Basics: Getting Your Feet (and Hands) Wet


Ready to try your hand at processing your own film and making prints? Here's my Quick Ten to help you get started:

6.02.2006

Photography 101

For the beginning enthusiast, there are, of course, classes at the local community college. These past couple of weeks, however, quite a few acquaintances have asked me for tips on the self-study of photography.

For this type of introduction, there are a number of excellent books as well as resources on the web. I used to have these bookmarked, but since my hard drive crashed a few months ago, I had to look these up for them.

Here's my Quick Ten recommendation list:

Once you are acquainted with the basics, the most important thing to remember is to

- SHOOT plenty of pictures. Close and far, landscape and vertical format, from different angles and viewpoints.

- LOOK at plenty of pictures. As much as you can. Photo books, photoblogs, works of the masters, paintings, drawings. See what makes them work.

- have fun!